Let’s Get Started:

Measure out a square or rectangle at an easy-to-measure size (like 3×3 or 5×5 inches) around the hole with a pencil. Proceed to cut out the drawn, measured square/rectangle with a utility knife. Be sure to expose half the width of the closest stud.

If the hole isn’t near any stud you can “scab” on a piece of wood instead. You’ll need to cut a piece of scrap of wood that will fit inside the hole, long enough to extend 3” beyond the hole.

PATCH WORK

Cut a new square of drywall to fit. Screw the patch onto the stud. It’s alright if the patch isn’t a perfect fit because you’ll then be covering the cracks with joint or mesh tape. Using a joint compound, coat the entire work area.

SAND IT DOWN

Once the compound has dried, (using a fine-grit sandpaper) sand the area with and apply paint primer over the patch. If the seams are still noticeable, apply additional compound and sand again.

…and wallah!

I hope this helps with your next project. If you have any additional tips please add them in the comment section below.

Snap-on Hobby Knife with Retractable Blade

1. Your wedding ring ‘accidentally’ falls into the sink drain.   If you truly want it back, do not turn on the water!  Place a pan beneath the sink trap (the U-shaped potion of the drain pipe under the sink),  unscrew the trap nut(s), remove the trap, drain, and retrieve the object.  Replace the trap and tighten trap nut securely.   You’ll usually need a  pipe wrench to unscrew the trap nuts. 

2. Leaking water pipes or supply line   If the leak is only a pinhole, find a pencil, sharpen it to a fine point, then jamb it into the hole (or use a toothpick) and wrap the temporary plug and pipe with tape until it can be repaired properly.  A small piece of bicycle tube can be placed over the hole and held in place with a hose clamp as a temporary fix.

3. Leaky sink faucet – Remove the trim cap from the faucet handle (usually marked with an “H” or “C” for well, you know). Unscrew the screw found beneath it and lift the handle off.   Use an adjustable wrench to remove the locknut and expose the rubber washer.  Unscrew the washer retaining screw and remove the washer.  Take the washer to your local hardware store and find a replacement.  Replace all the parts in the reverse order of disassembly.

4. Replacing an old shower head – Wrap a towel around the chrome shower head supply line and hold it with a pipe wrench while removing the head.  Or even better, use a strap wrench such as the Alltrade G.O.T wrench.  Screw on the new unit making sure that it has been tightened properly, using teflon tape if called for in the instructions.  Turn on the supply to make sure there are no leaks.

5. Clogged drain – Many clogged drains can be corrected by running boiling water into the drain as most clogs are located in the trap.  If that doesn’t work, maek yourself a cup of tea, then try one of  the commercially available drain cleaners.

Drill chuck need replacement? – Using the chuck key, open the chuck to its maximum.  Peer down into the open chuck and locate the chuck screw. You’ll have to remove this screw to remove the chuck. This screw has a reverse thread, which means you must remove it in the right hand direction. With the screw removed, insert the chuck key into the chuck and strike the key with a hammer handle downward to unscrew the chuck. Screw on the new chuck in the reverse of the removal procedure. Remember, the screw must be reinserted and tightened in the left-hand direction.

Drill a level hole! – If your drill doesn’t have a built-in bubble level, tape a small line level top of the drill on a surface that is parallel to the drill bit. Then level the drill and start drilling, watching the level to ensure the drill stays straight.

Drill bits skating on the drilling surface? When drilling into wood or metal, draw cross marks on the surface and punch the surface with a center punch to form a dimple. Place your drill bit in the dimple and fire away.

Sanding belt or disk clogged with paint? – Hold an old tennis shoe against the sandpaper while operating the sander to remove the contaminant until you have a fresh new sanding surface.

No place to store a saber saw? – If you have a wood shelf, drill a hole into it and place the saw blade into the hole with the saw base resting on the shelf.

Circular saw blade covered with pitch? – Spray the blade with oven cleaner to remove the pitch. Afterwards, wash the blade with a detergent and dry to prevent rust.

Unprotected loose circular saw blades? – Keep those blades sharp by wrapping a length of slit-open water hose attach all around the perimeter.

Rough and rusted table saw top? – Spray the surface with WD-40 and sand lightly with 400 Wet-or-Dry sandpaper. Clean with a soft cloth and buff. Then polish the top to a high gloss using automobile wax for a friction free shine.

Router bits covered with pitch? – Spray bits with oven cleaner and allow them to soak until the pitch dissolves. Wash with soapy water and dry.

It might be premature to make an arrest, but on a recent junket to the expansive and plush Hart & Huntington Offroad Team race shops, I observed some race techs exhibiting suspicious behavior.   I distinctly recall a couple shady characters eyeballing the new Powerbuilt TripleLift floor jacks I was dropping off.

Powerbuilt Triple Lift 2 Ton Floor Jack

Granted, the ”Objective du Junket” was to give the team a few TripleLift Floor Jacks to try out.  After all, they have all manner of off-road vehicles in the shop, and the TripleLift can raise any and all of them.    And despite potentially questionable outward appearances, these guys build and maintain some very complex and expensive machines.

So who better to understand and appreciate the simple genius of the TripleLift?   And who better to beat the tar out of these poor jacks?   They’ll drag them through the dirt.  Toss them in and out of truck beds.   Use them to lift and hold greasy, oily transfer cases and transmissions and filthy, filthy race trucks and carts.

In short, they’ll abuse these innocent and harmless floor jacks like there’s no tomorrow.   There’s nothing to do now but wait and hope for the best.   These cruel masters will drag the TripleLift to Las Vegas (of course!) next month for the final round of the Lucas Oil Off Road Race Series.

We’ll find out their fate when the dust clears….

If your pressure washer is plugged in but won’t run, try these steps:

1. Press the RESET button on the GFIC plug (you can do this while the unit is plugged in). This may be required before each start-up.

2. Make sure the ON/OFF switch is in the ON position

3. Note that motor only runs when you squeeze the trigger on the wand and shuts off when the trigger is released.

If your pressure washer keeps shutting off or surging while in use, try these steps:

1. If you are using an extension cord with the unit, trying operating it without the extension cord. Using an extension cord can trigger the thermal overload protector on the motor, shutting it off.

2. The household circuit you are plugging the unit into may be delivering less than 120V to the unit, which can trigger motor shutdown.  Test this by changing the wand pressure setting to the lowest pressure output. If the unit runs normally in this mode, then you need to plug the unit into a dedicated 120V outlet.  This is typically the outlet that a washer, dryer or fridge is plugged into.

3. The wand may be clogged with debris.  Your pressure washer ships with a wire probe that can be used to clean the wand outlet, and your user manual includes instructions on how to properly clean the wand.

An air compressor is a machine designed to store air under pressure and release the pressurized air in a controlled fashion.   The pressurized air is used to drive air powered tools, air-powered painting devices and/or air accessories like nozzles and inflation needles.   A properly used compressor will help you finish a task much faster and with far less labor.   Like any power tool, air compressors demand user respect and a high level of safety awareness.   In other words, read the user manual before you use a compressor!

• An air pump, to move air into an air tank for storage
• An air tank for storing air compressed by the pump
• A pressure gauge that shows the pressure of the air stored in the tank
• A switch that starts and stops the air pump
• A safety valve to prevent excessive pressure buildup of the stored air
• A moisture drain valve on the air tank

Many compressors offer a regulator valve, which is used to control the level of air pressure coming out of the air tank.

When connecting an air hose to a compressor, and when connecting a fitting or accessory to an air hose, it is critical to use Teflon tape on all threaded connections.   This prevents pressure loss due to air leaks and makes connections and disconnections easier.   

User Tip: All new air compressors have a start-up procedure that must be followed prior to first use.   This procedure helps ensure that the motor is properly lubricated and broken in before a load is placed on it.  

Selecting the Right Compressor

Selecting the right compressor for your needs can be downright confusing.   Do you choose on horsepower, gallons, PSI or CFM?   Oiless or oil drive?   One stage or two stage?

One selection method you might consider is:

1. Determine what tools you want to run
2. Consider where you’ll be using the compressor
3. Consider how often you’ll be using the compressor

1. Determine what tools you want to run

To run properly, air tools such as impact guns, ratchets and sanders require a certain amount of air pressure, measured in PSI (Pounds per Square Inch), and a certain amount of air volume (measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute).  

Most compressors supply air pressure (PSI) of at least 100 PSI, which is sufficient air pressure to operate an air tool.   Therefore, air volume (CFM) is the most important consideration for proper air tool performance.  

For compressors, air volume (CFM) ratings measure how fast the air pump pushes air into the air tank for storage.   Note that most compressors have two CFM ratings: one at around 40 PSI that will be a higher number, and another at around 100 PSI that will be a lower number.   That’s because as the air pressure increases inside the air tank, the air pump has to work harder and harder to force more air into the tank.  

The other consideration is tank volume (GAL), measured in gallons.   The air tank only stores pressurized air; so as long as the compressor is delivering the air volume required by the tool, it’s impossible to run out of air no matter what the tank size is.   A smaller tank will get up to pressure quicker and is more portable than a larger tank.

However, for air tools that require continuous use, such as grinders or sanders, a larger air tank reduces the amount of times the pump has to start up and run to maintain a given pressure.    This results in longer pump life due to reduced component stress and operating temperatures.

2. Consider where you’ll be using the compressor

The two key considerations here are portability and space requirements.

Portability

If you need to use a compressor outdoors, on a job site or at different locations, then a portable air compressor may be the right choice.   Even the most “portable” compressor can weigh upwards of fifty pounds, so strategically placed wheels, handles and tanks can help ease the burden of moving your compressor.  

A portable compressor will not offer the tank volume of a stationary unit.   That makes them a less desirable choice for running continuous tools such as air sanders and grinders.  

User Tip: When using a compressor for remote work, it’s important to use a longer air hose to connect the air tool with the compressor.  Don’t use a longer power cord to move the compressor away from the power outlet.

Space requirements

Both portable and stationary compressors offer space saving options when shop space is at a premium.  Vertical tank units have air pumps mounted to the top of the tank to save space.   “Pancake” style tanks take up less room than horizontal tanks.   Twin tank compressors stack tanks vertically in a space-saving design.

Vertical Air Compressors Preserve Floor Space

  3. Consider how often you’ll be using the compressor

High-end (and more expensive) compressors designed for continuous daily use have heavy duty, oil-lubricated pumps that can withstand high heat and constant start cycles.  The compressor units may be belt driven by the motor rather than directly connected to and driven by the motor.   This permits the compressor pump unit to run at a different speed than the motor.  

For DIY’ers and pros that don’t run their compressors all day every day, a less expensive model should get the job done.   Oil lubricated units offer better durability than oil-less units without a lot of additional maintenance.

 Regardless of the size or type of air compressor you buy, you’re sure to enjoy the convenience and speed with which you’ll get the job done.

1. Drive a Nail or Screw Easier!  Coat the nail shaft or screw threads with bees wax (!), chapstick or bar soap.
2.  Trouble Placing a Nut and Washer in a Tight Spot?  Attach the washer to the nut with hot melt glue.
3. Need an Extra Hand when Soldering?   Use long nose pliers to hold the wire by slipping a rubber band around the handles to hold them together.
4. Chisel Edges Getting Dull in Your Toolbox?  Cut a slit into a tennis ball and slip it onto the chisel blade.
5. Protect Handsaw Teeth from Dulling!  Cut a length of water hose, slit down the centerline and place over the teeth.
6. Measure the Inside Dimensions of a Window or Opening.  Use a telescoping curtain rod with the elbows removed. Place a piece of tape around the unit to maintain the measurement. Remove and measure with a tape measure.
7. Trouble Starting Screws in a Confined Space?  Tear off a 2 inch piece of masking tape, place the screw through the adhesive side, place the screwdriver blade into the screw slot and press the tape to each side of the blade.
8. Marring Wood while Nailing?  Cut a small piece of Peg Board. Place it over the items to be nailed and nail through the holes level with the surface and then using a nail set, finish setting the nails.
9. Need to Remove Pitch from a Saw Blade?  Spray the blade with oven cleaner to lossen pitch for easy removal (wear gloves and goggles).
10. Nails Keep Splitting Wood?  Place nail upside down on floor (so the point is up) then lightly hammer the point to dull it a bit.  Some beeswax might help too!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kW8e35uXJvc

Well the folks at Powerbuilt have come up with a unique new product that might just help save space and money too.  It’s a new hybrid floor jack called the “Triple Lift” and it’s designed to lift a car, truck, motorcycle or ATV.   The big idea here is that the Triple Lift replaces a standard floor jack and a standard ATV jack, and supposedly even eliminates the need for jack stands.   So for vehicle owners who do even basic maintenance, this one jack replaces a lot of expensive and space hogging equipment.

We’ll be taking a closer look at the Triple Lift over the next couple weeks to see how it works.  Meanwhile here’s a sneak preview photo:

Powerbuilt Triple Lift 2 Ton Floor Jack