Use Your Rotary Tool Like a Pro!

April 6th, 2010

The Versatile Rotary Tool

“I Never Saw a Tool like Thee, One so Versatile as a Rotary”

Yes, I know – my sonnets aren’t that strong, but they are rich in truth.   Few power tools are as versatile as a rotary tool, and for some jobs, a rotary tool is the only practical choice.   Just try and name another tool that can drill, cut, grind, sand, file, buff, debur, carve, engrave and polish.

A rotary tool is pretty darn easy to use, too.   There are three keys to success:

  • Select the right bit, wheel, brush or other attachment for the task
  • Set the correct tool speed
  • Apply the right amount of pressure to the workpiece

Rotary Tool How To Series Loading Collets & Bits

Overview

Let’s start with the basics.   I’ve selected a typical Kawasaki Rotary Tool Set that includes a rotary tool and a vast selection of accessories.  A kit like this will pretty much answer the needs of every hobbyist and do-it-yourselfer on the planet.

Kawasaki Rotary Tool Set

Let’s look at the rotary tool itself.  First make sure the tool is unplugged now and whenever you change bits, clean, maintain or store your rotary tool.   One of the keys to the versatility of a rotary tool is the variable speed function.   This Kawasaki model has a speed adjustment dial on the back of the tool that allows speed adjustment from about 8,000 RPM to 30,000 RPM.   Adjustment is made by rotating the dial, in this case clockwise for higher speed and counterclockwise for lower speed.

Rotating The Speed Dial to Adjust RPM

Now is probably a good time to don some safety glasses, plug in your rotary tool (without any attachments attached), turn it on and play with the speed control. This is a good way to get an idea of how the tool feels when running at slow, medium and fast speeds.   There is a noticeable difference, as the tool motor exerts a bit of centrifugal force as speeds increase.

Now turn off the tool and unplug it – let’s look at the business end of the tool where bits and accessories are attached.   Note the silver shaft lock button on the side of the tool.

Rotary Tool Shaft Lock Button

If it weren’t for this button, you’d never be able to load a bit into the tool.   To see why, grab the knurled collar at the end of the shaft and try loosening it by turning it counterclockwise.   You can turn it all day by hand and nothing useful will happen.

Now push and hold that silver button with your thumb and turn the knurled collar counterclockwise again.   The collar will spin freely for part or most of a revolution, then the silver button will depress all the way into the tool body.   At this point the knurled collar will stop spinning uselessly, and you can loosen and/or remove it either by hand or with the mini-wrench included in the kit.

Pushing the Shaft Lock Button

Go ahead and spin the knurled collar off the threaded shaft.   Underneath that collar is another critical part called a collet.  The collet can be pulled straight out of the shaft by hand -go ahead and pull it out and have a look at it.

Rotary Tool Collet Assembly

Note the collet has slits cut into the sides; this allows it to clamp down on the shaft of a bit.    Some rotary tool kits like this one have a few different collets included of varying shaft diameter.

Various sizes of Rotary Tool Collets

Loading a Bit

Different bits have different shafts diameters to match these collets.   Take a look at the drill bits in the set we’re using – note the shaft size difference between the smallest and largest bit.

Rotary Tool Bits with Various Shaft Diameters

I’ll bet you can guess what to do next – yep, you’ve got match the collet size to the bit shaft size. This is a trial and error process, but not a difficult one.  Once you’ve selected the correct collet size, load it into the tool then screw the knurled collar back into place lightly.

Load the bit into the collet, then push that silver button to lock the collar and tighten the whole assembly down.   Don’t go all he-man when tightening the bit;  the design of the collet assembly is such that it will hold a bit firmly without a lot of torque.

Here’s a quick video summarizing what we’ve covered so far.

Selecting the Right Bit

Now that we know how to load a bit into the tool, the next task is to figure out which bit to use for a particular task.

The Kawasaki rotary tool kit we’re using here has over 190 bits and attachments, which is a testament to this tool’s versatility.    Let’s start with the most familiar: drill bits.   Why use a rotary tool to drill holes if you have a perfectly good cordless or corded drill?

Rotary Tool Drill Bits

Two good reasons are precision and control.  It’s much easier to hold and control a relatively small and lightweight rotary tool versus a heavy full size drill, especially when using a very small diameter drill bit to drill very small holes.   If you need to drill the hole in a precise location, again this will be much easier with a small lightweight tool.

When drilling holes, keep the tool speed at a medium setting;  too much speed will make it difficult to control the rate of drilling and may distort or melt plastics.    It’s also critical to keep the tool and drill bit aligned with each other and square to the workpiece to avoid breaking a bit with sideways pressure.

Some rotary tool kits have unusual looking bits with odd-shaped sparkly tips.  These are diamond-coated engraving bits.   As the name suggests, these can be used to engrave or cut hard materials like metal, gemstones, ceramic, glass and plastic.  The different shapes can be used for everything from drilling to channeling materials.

Diamond Coated Engraving Bits for Rotary Tools

Up next are grinding stones.  These come in a myriad of shapes and sizes.  Two common stone materials are red aluminum oxide and green silicon carbide.   In our Kawasaki rotary tool kit, both the red and green stones are 120 grit, a medium grit useful for general grinding and shaping.

Rotary Tool Grinding Stones - Red Aluminum Oxide

Rotary Tool Grinding Stones - Green Silicon Carbide

These stones can be used to grind and shape precious metals, gemstones and non-ferrous metals like aluminum and brass.  When grinding, it’s best to keep tool speed on the slower side to help control the amount of material you’re removing.  Here’s another important tip for grinding stones – never use a grinding stone that is cracked or chipped as it can fly apart at high speed and cause property damage or injury.

Many rotary tool kits also come with a selection of brushes.   For example, our Kawasaki Rotary Tool Kit includes nylon, stainless steel and brass brushes.

A nylon brush is handy for buffing, polishing and light duty cleaning.  The metal wire brushes are much more aggressive and thus useful for removing tarnish and rust from metal surfaces.

Nylon and Wire Brushes for Rotary Tools

Next up are mandrels and the various accessories that are attached to the rotary tool using a mandrel.   The Kawasaki Rotary Tool Kit we are using here includes three types of mandrels:

  • One that looks like a shaft with a wood screw on the end – used for attaching “soft” accessories like cloth polishing wheels
  • One that has a small screw and washer threaded into one end – used to attach “hard” accessories like polishing stones and cutting wheels
  • One that has a rubber drum on it used to attach sandpaper drums

Rotary Tool Mandrels

Here’s a video showing how to attach accessories to a mandrel.

New Season, New Plan, New Headquarters

March 25th, 2010

Special thanks to our team for all the hard work and exhausting hours.

Planning, strategy, and preparation are the keys to mapping success. The game plan, however, will only measure up to a critical 50% of the working formula. The remaining follow through, combined with experience and skill, could be considered predictable. Winning races, of course, is never predictable, but when you have your sights dialed and the ducks are in a row, it does make for a trouble free process.

For the 2010 season, in order for the Hart and Huntington Off Road Team to achieve yet another successful year of short course racing, Premiere Motorsports Group has arranged for preparation to be handled in a much easier and trouble free fashion. Conveniently based in Corona, a fresh new 20K sq. ft. facility serves as the new headquarters for the PMG Race Operations. Fully stocked with quality Powerbuilt hand tools and outfitted with a truckload of state-of-the-art Bailiegh Industrial Products, the fabricators, mechanics, and technicians of the Hart and Huntington Off Road Team will have all the necessary equipment in place to handle the task at hand and prepare for future events.

Continued success has already been tasted as several programs showed great improvement during Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Rounds 1 & 2.

The modified Trophy Kart’s piloted by Anthony Busnardo and Brandon Vermillion proved they were capable of running with the fastest on the track. Furious racing ensued and Brandon was stripped of what was sure to be his first podium finish when another competitor spun out #585 San Manuel Band of Mission Indians Trophy Kart machine. Premiere Motorsports Group has also expanded the program with a third kart competing in JR-1 and driven by young Dean Duro. The boys show tremendous dedication & passion and are hungry to get in their Karts as often as possible for testing, seat time, and really just to have fun.

Carey Hart had difficulties on the last lap of Round 1, but came back on a mission for Sunday’s Round 2. Throwing down competitive lap times and racing for position, Carey finished 12th out of 21 highly skilled entries. “Every lap was a battle,” said Hart, “My guys gave me a good truck and I came out today and drove a pretty solid race.”

Consistent and competitive is the scenario as usual for Brandt in the Pro Lite Unlimited Toyota and John Fitzgerald in the Limited Buggy. John nailed Rounds 1&2 with a dominating pair of back to back wins. Chris Brandt showed he has the top notch program to send Hart and Huntington chasing after a championship. Chris flew away with the lead and 1st place finish in Round 1 but during Round 2, the #82 experienced a mechanical hic cup that left Chris with a “jimmy-rigged” shifting mechanism. He was able to hang on and finished 3rd but was awarded 2nd after the 1st place finisher was DQed.

Brandt and Fitzgerald are now leading their respective divisions going into Rounds 3 & 4.

#22 Merrell Pro-4 (After Sunday’s Race)

#22 Pro-4 (After Sunday’s Race)

Merrell #22 on General Tires!!!

#585 Brandon Vermillion Putting it down!

To learn more about the Hart and Huntington Off Road Team, visit the website and be sure to check out the featured HH highlight film from LOORS Las Vegas Rounds 1 & 2. From here, the next event takes place at Surprise AZ on April 17th and 18th. The fans from Arizona will be treated to another thrilling weekend of short course off road racing. What is even more exciting is that many of the additional big name competitors that were seen in Las Vegas will continue to race with the Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series for the remainder of the season.

About the Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series:  The Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series is the evolution of the long standing support of short course racing by Forrest Lucas and Lucas Oil Products.

Steeped in the Midwest tradition of short course off road racing infused with a West Coast influence, Lucas Oil Off Road Racing brings intense four wheel door to door action to challenging, fan friendly tracks. Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series: This is Short Course. For more information please visit LucasOilOffRoadRacing.com

Follow us on Twitter at @hartoffroadteam for all the teams latest news and events.

For more information on Premiere Motorsports Group and the Hart and Huntington Offroad Team go to

www.hartandhuntingtonracing.com

This professional motorsports organization is the product of numerous individuals and support of strong companies brought together to create an off road racing powerhouse. The brands like Hart & Huntington, General Tire, Lucas Oil, Baileigh Industrial, Geico Powersports, Liquid Graphics, Alltrade, Powerbuilt, Chronic Tacos, Flawless Vodka, Weekend Warrior Water, K&N Air Filters, and Simpson Race Products will ensure a number of achievements & results throughout the 2010 season. Additional support from King Shocks, VP Racing Fuels, KMC Wheels, Gator Wraps, JSTAR Motors, National Concrete Cutting, Century Collusion Center, Screen Works, Corona Millworks Racing, constantly through the season compounds the sustainability of racing.

NEW! IMPROVED! Now Formulated With Actual Useful Information!

March 9th, 2010

If the Improved User Guide for Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adapter came in a box, it might be emblazoned with a colorful burst bearing that slogan.

I fear that most of you who have purchased one of these nifty products would agree that the user manual that came with it isn’t going to win any literary awards.   Well, we’ve fixed that problem; at least we hope we have.    If not, let us know!

Troubleshooting Guide – Walks and Driveways

February 19th, 2010

A severe winter like the one we’re “enjoying” this year can be tough on sidewalks, walkways and driveways. Cracks and potholes from repeated freezing and thawing, gouges from snow shovels and discoloration from chemicals all wreak havoc on paved surfaces. You can save big bucks doing some of the simpler repairs yourself.

1. Pop ups or cracks in concrete – Wear safety glasses and work gloves for protection! Using a chisel or wide bladed screwdriver, chip out all the dirt and debris that has lodged into cracks, and vacuum until clean. Mix a good fast-bonding concrete mix with water, wet the hole or crack with water for good adhesion, and trowel in the cement mixture. Remove any excess filler and smooth everything out. Keep the surface slightly moist to speed the curing process. 48 hours of curing is required.

2. Cracks or holes in asphalt – Cracks should be enlarged to allow the patch to cover properly. Clean out the entire residue with a vacuum and patch using one of the commercially available asphalt patching compounds. These can be applied by means of a caulking gun if it’s in a tube form or by a putty knife if purchased in a can. When the crack has been covered completely, smooth out the compound. For holes in the asphalt, clean out all rocks or residue and vacuum. Using a trowel for thin board, fill the hole to about ½” above the surface and use any heavy board to tamp the filler down level with the surface.

3. Broken corners of concrete steps – Find two pieces of board that are large enough to cover the broken area on both sides. Using masking tape, tape these boards to the step making sure that they are level with the step top surface area and overlap completely at the corner. It may be necessary to place some sort of blocking against the boards so that they don’t move during the filler application. Fill the void with mixed concrete patch keeping in mind that the top must be smooth and level with the surface. Keep the surface slightly moist to speed the curing process. 48 hours of curing is required.

4. Broken Concrete Block – If the hole is large, it should be filled with newspaper to within 3/4″ of the surface. Mix your filler and place into the hole with a trowel making sure to smooth it level. If the hole is along the upper or bottom edge you will need to use a piece of board to form a cavity to hold the mixture in place until it has dried. Keep the surface slightly moist to speed the curing process. 48 hours of curing is required.

If Loving Tools is Wrong, I Don’t Wanna Be Right

February 12th, 2010

Is there any kind of love that’s wrong? OK, let me rephrase that. Is there any kind of love (that doesn’t break a law) that’s wrong?
I submit that there is not, and therefore, loving tools is perfectly acceptable. After all, we humans have used tools for so long that they’re as much a part of our existence as, say, clothes. No one thinks it odd when someone says “nice tie” or “real men wear pink”.

So is it wrong to pick up, say, a measuring tape, and have the feel and fit in one’s hand be so right, so perfect, that it’s as if your whole life leading up to that moment was not a series of random events, but part of some larger plan culminating in the moment you and said tape were united? Had you not turned that corner on that street at just the right time and caught a glimpse of that tape out of the corner of your eye as it hung in the hardware store window display, etc.

As Valentine’s Day is nigh, here is my confession: I love the Snap-on 16 Foot Tape Measure. The one we recently gave away to twelve lucky Toolsmith Direct Facebook fans and twitter followers. I wonder, what will Valentine’s Day be like for them? Will they have the courage to profess their new-found love? Are they willing to “Not be Right” like I obviously am…not?

Andy.

The Secret of Portable Generators Revealed

February 3rd, 2010

It’s Alchemy at its finest! Behold: a machine that magically turns gasoline into electricity! Only those with advanced degrees and well-developed derring-do should attempt to harness this incredible mystery! Mere mortals and faint-of-hearts should stand well clear!
Okay, so my imagination runs a little wild at the thought of firing up a portable generator. After all, I live in Southern California, and recent rains not withstanding, we don’t normally experience weather events that make having a back-up generator prudent. So for a myriad of mostly good reasons, I have never put together or started up a portable generator. I admit I was a bit intimidated by the very idea of mixing gas and electricity. Until I watched our very own Carl of “Ask Carl” assemble, explain and start-up one of our Snap-on portable gasoline generators. Turns out the secret of generators is…there is no secret. It’s pretty straightforward after all. Am I feeling a bit foolish? Or could it be a tinge of disappointment a la Dorothy and the Wizard?

Popular Mechanics Magazine Made Us…Popular

January 20th, 2010

Boy, am I surprised at the incredible response we’ve gotten to a recent Popular Mechanics article featuring the Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adapter! I know a whole lot of people read the magazine (including me), but I honestly had no idea just how appealing this product would be to gearheads, tool nuts and apparently to weary business travelers passing the time at airport newsstands.

To one and all I say “thanks” for making us a bit more…Popular.  Now if we can just get in People Magazine’s 100 Most Beautiful Tools issue, I’ll die happy.

Andy

Toolsmith 101-Pliers

January 12th, 2010

Just about every household tool set on the market includes a pair of pliers.   Like many hand tools, the design and function of pliers hasn’t changed much over the millennium.  Way, way, way back in the day, pliers were made of wood. In fact, ancient Greek art depicts the god Hephaestus using pliers in his forge.  Apparently even a god can get a boo-boo by grabbing a hunk of superheated metal!

As the centuries rolled by, specialized styles and shapes evolved to meet the unique demands of a task.  Think of the old west blacksmith who had to shoe horses all day long and how much the right pair of pliers helped him avoid a swift kick in the behind.

Over the past few decades, advances in metallurgy and ergonomics have led to refinements, but it’s likely our ancestors would instantly recognize and understand the function of a pair of modern pliers.   Seems you can’t improve a whole lot on a classic.

So if you find yourself confused about the right style of pliers to use for a project, get a grip on yourself and read this summary of the most common and useful pliers:

Slip Joint Pliers

By far the most common type of pliers and probably the most versatile too. You can use them to pull nails out of walls and boards, grip, yank andturn stubborn objects and even use them as a makeshift wrench for very small nuts and bolts.  Though we don’t recommend it, pretty much everyone has use slip joint pliers as a makeshift hammer.  “Slip joint” refers to a simple jaw positioning scheme, which allows you to adjust the jaws for a narrow or wider grip by opening the handles wide and slipping the jaw pivot post into a new position.  Hard to explain, easy to figure out and pretty darn handy sometimes.    There are a few different sizes available, with the 6 inch length by far the most common and suitable for just about everyone.

As with pretty much all types of pliers, the cheapest slip joint pliers have bare metal handles and loosey-goosey pivot joints.  Not great but adequate for occasional household use. More expensive models offer heat-treated carbon, nickel or chrome vanadium steel, more comfortable and ergonomic handle designs and tighter joint tolerances.

Groove Joint Pliers


Groove Joint Pliers, A.K.A Tongue and Groove Pliers, have jaws that can be adjusted for a wide range of openings.  Each “groove” represents a slightly wider span between jaws, from touching two or more inches apart.  This feature, along with serrated jaw teeth, makes it handy for grabbing, holding and turning lots of different sizes and shapes, from round to hex any pretty much anything in between.   These are popular pliers for plumbers and contractors and can come in pretty handy around the house too.  Here’s a tip: if you want to loosen or tighten a showerhead, faucet or something else with a nice finish that you’d like to avoid scratching, first wrap the showerhead etc. with a rag, and then grip the rag with your groove joint pliers and turn.  If you can’t get enough leverage to loosen it this way, then it’s time to employ a pipe wrench or strap wrench.   Groove joint pliers come in sizes ranging from 8 inches to 18 inches or longer.  The most versatile size that provides enough leverage for most household jobs would be 12 or 14 inch sizes.

Long Nose Pliers


Suitable for holding small objects, these pliers are widely used for electrical, electronic, jewelry and hobby tasks. The long narrow jaws with serrated teeth can fit into confined spaces and hold very small objects.  Long nose pliers are available in lots of handle lengths, from a mini size 4 or 5 inch handle suitable for jewelry to long handle models with 11 or 12 inch handles that fishermen and women swear by for extracting hooks.

Diagonal Pliers


Probably the second most useful household pliers, diagonal pliers don’t grip, they cut. Which makes them indispensible for any kind of electrical project as they are great for cutting and stripping wires.  They’re also perfect for snipping cable ties and bicycle brake and shifter cables.  They’ll even cut thin sheet metal in a pinch.  Sizes range from 4 inches to 8 inches, with a 6 or 7 inch size being about right for household tasks

Locking Pliers


Last but not least are the handy locking pliers.  Locking pliers are designed to clamp firmly onto objects, with a built-in spring loaded locking device that holds the pliers jaws together until you unlock them. This makes them ideal for gripping and turning stubborn pipes and they can be pressed into service as a clamp as well. Clamping force can be adjusted via a thumbscrew which adds to the versatility of these pliers. Sizes range from 4 inches to 12 inches and curved or straight jaw styles are available as well.  A 10 inch size would be a good choice for most tasks.

Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adapter in the February 2010 issue of Popular Mechanics

January 12th, 2010

Check out this great editorial coverage on the Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adapter in the February 2010 issue of Popular Mechanics. Popular Mechanics enjoys a monthly readership of 8.8 million, making it the 6th best-selling men’s interest magazine in the US.

Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adapter

Baby It’s Cold Outside

January 8th, 2010

I like watching The Weather Channel.  There, I admitted it.  Not all the time, mind you, but our local news makes you wait 18 minutes into their 6:30 AM broadcast to give you any real weather info.

Here in Southern California the weather is blissfully dull most of the time, but this morning while tuned into my nerdy weather program, I couldn’t help but notice that many of you are experiencing some  rather chilly conditions.

In fact, “Arctic” doesn’t seem like a strong enough descriptor.   Well, I feel for you folks and hope you all weather the storms as safely and comfortably as possible.    When all has finally thawed and it’s time for spring cleaning and repairs, I hope you’ll think of us, as we’ll be ready with the tools and equipment you need.

Warmly Yours,

Andy.